Travel with Julie

My Antipasto Platter

An invitation to a last-minute holiday party called for a quick fix: an antipasto platter.  Antipasto means "before the meal."  It is traditionally the first course of a formal Italian meal.  Not to be confused with hors d'oeuvres, antipasto signifies the start of a meal, typically served family-style on a large platter at the dinner table.  And, because they are easily assembled, it was the perfect accoutrement for attending a last-minute get-together.

Antipasto traditionally offers a variety of cured meats, marinated vegetables, olives, pickled peppers, various cheeses and toasted bread, called bruschetta. The idea is to keep it simple and relaxed.  Tonight, my antipasto platter pomodoro and mozzarella crostini (recipe below), Tuscan salami, olives, marinated artichoke hearts, pickled carrots, pickled mushrooms, and two cheeses (parmesan and pecorino romano).

What do you think?  Don't you wish you were going to the same party <wink>?

POMODORO AND MOZZARELLA CROSTINI

1 filone bread (a tubular yeast bread, considered 'poor man's bread' in Italy, similar to a baguette)

2 Roma tomatoes

Fresh Mozzarella di Bufala (mozzarella made from buffalo's milk)

Olive oil

Balsamic Vinegar

2-3 Basil leaves

Salt and pepper

Slice tomatoes into 1/8 inch thick slices.  Place slices on a plate or bowl.  Season with salt and pepper. Drizzle tomatoes with olive oil and then sprinkle them with balsamic vinegar.  Cover and refrigerate for several hours or overnight.

Slice filone bread into 1/4 inch thick pieces.  Lay slices out on a cookie sheet and drizzle with olive oil.  Toast under the broiler in oven until browned.  Flip the bread slices and toast the other side.

Place toasted bread slices on a serving platter.  Top with a slice of tomato and a slice of mozzarella. Garnish each slice with shredded basil.  Serve immediately.

Boun Appetito!

Italy's Ancient Christmas Tradition, Presepe

Christmas hasn't always been about richly decorated trees, houses trimmed in twinkling lights, and expensive gift exchanges.  Rather, it once was centered around religious celebrations with displays of nativity scenes.  In Italy, these nativity scenes are called "presepe."  Its roots are believed to stem from the 13th century with the first one being built by Saint Francis.

My friend Gloria (who owns and operates a beautiful vacation rental, Casina di Rosa, in Civitella Marittima) has written a wonderful article describing Italy's presepe Christmas traditions, both past and present.  It has helped to remind me of the true spirit of Christmas, and appreciate even more the Italian culture and their ancient traditions!  Gloria's article.

Cicchetti: Venetian Tapas

I admit that when I think of tapas, my mind immediately goes to those small savory dishes from Spain.  Yet, tapas have become quite popular in Venice.  They are called cicchetti, pronounced chi-keh-tee.  These small plates are excellent for lunch, afternoon snack or light dinner -- a nice alternative to some of the more expensive dining options in Venice. Some cicchetteria (tapas bars) have open food cases from which you make your selection, while others offer menus listing out various plates.  Cicchetti are so popular that now many restaurants offer them as an appetizer option.  Learn more about cicchetti in this video:

A few of my favorite cicchetti include baccala mantecato (salt cod whipped to a creamy paste in olive oil), castraure (fresh young artichokes), and a pistachio-cheese cream crostini.  For the more daring foodie, try fopeti (baby octopus), sarde in saor (sardines marinated in vinegar, pine nuts, onions and raisins), masanelle (tiny green crabs, eaten shells and all).

If you're now ready to try cicchetti on your next trip to Venice, give one of these cicchetteria a try -- you can find their locations on the map below or here:

Cantina Do Mori (San Polo)

Un Mondo Divino (Cannaregio)

Enoteca Mascareta (Castello)

Al Pesador (San Polo)

View Cicchetteria in Venice in a larger map

First Friday Foto Therapy

Helsinki Cathedral in Helsinki, Finland

Taken by: Kylie Pieczonka, traveler

On the first Friday of every month, I will share a photo from my travels, or yours.  If you'd like a chance to see one of your fabulous vacation photos published on this site, send it (in .jpg format) along with a brief description to: julie@myfarandaway.com.

Cure your travel bug with a dose of Foto Therapy!

Chicken Chasseur

I have a confession: French cooking makes me nervous! French food seems so deliciously complicated that I tend to stay in more familiar territory--Italian cooking. Yet as I dapple in the cuisine, I am finding that not all French recipes are complicated, or scary.  Chicken Chassuer (pronounced shah-sur) is one of those hard-to-mess-up recipes.

Chasseur means "hunter" in French, and was originally served with wild game.  I, however, substitute a basic supermarket chicken in my dish.  The main ingredients include butter (of course, it's French!), mushrooms, shallots and wine. While recipes vary, most call for cognac, a special French brandy.  I generally don't have cognac on hand and use whatever brandy I have available.  It works well enough for me, but I'm sure a French connoisseur would argue that only a top-notch cognac will do!

In the photo above, I served my chasseur with penne pasta--it's all I had in the pantry at the time.  As good as it was, it is more typical of French cooking if served with buttered noodles or mashed potatoes.  Are you ready for the recipe?  Well, voila!

8 pieces of chicken

1 tablespoon olive oil

3/4 stick of butter

2 shallots, finely chopped

2 cups of sliced button mushrooms

1 tablespoon flour

1/2 cup white wine

2 tablespoons brandy

2 teaspoons tomato paste

1 cup chicken stock

2 teaspoons chopped tarragon

Salt and pepper

1 teaspoon chopped parsley

Rinse chicken parts and pat dry.  Heat oil in frying pan over medium heat, add 1/2 the butter.  Once the butter has melted and stopped foaming, add the chicken and brown on both sides.  Place chicken on a plate and keep warm.  Pour excess fat out of the pan.

Melt the remaining butter in the pan, add the shallots and saute until tender.  Add the mushrooms, saute for 2-3 minutes.

Add the flour and cook for 1 minute, stirring constantly.  Stir in wine, brandy, tomato paste and chicken stock. Bring the sauce to a boil while continuing to stir. Reduce the heat and add the tarragon.  Season with salt and pepper.

Return the chicken to the pan, cover and simmer for 30-40 minutes, or until chicken is cooked through.  Sprinkle with parsley.

Bon appetit!

A Day In Cortona

Of all the charming medieval villages in Tuscany, Cortona is one of my favorites.  Perhaps it holds a special place in my heart because I "knew it when" (before Frances Mayes made it popular with her book, Under The Tuscan Sun). Maybe, it is because of the wonderful friends there who, every year, welcome me like a long lost relative.  Either way, Cortona will forever be a stop on my Italy itinerary, as it should be on yours as well.

Cortona, located about 50 miles south of Florence and 130 miles north of Rome, is rich in Etruscan roots, dating back to the 4th century BC.  The streets of Cortona are easy to wander and spectacular views of the valley are readily available.  Be warned, however, the climb to the top (although worth every step and gasp for air) is steep!

Most guidebooks will tell you that one day is all you need to explore Cortona.  One day is sufficient to hit the highlights.  Two days, however, is ideal for digging a little deeper and experiencing some of the real treasures in this town.

WHERE TO STAY

Hotel San Michele.  Located inside one of the oldest buildings (formerly a 15th-century palace) in the heart of Cortona.  This charming boutique hotel has been restored to reflect its true history and character.  The rooms are simple and decorated with traditional antiques, offering some of the most dramatic views of red-tiled rooftops and the Val di Chiana.  If arriving by car, follow the signs to the hotel taking you inside the medieval walls.  Once you have unloaded your luggage, you will be required to drive back outside the walls for parking.

WHERE TO EAT

Osteria del Teatro.  Situated in a 16th-century building, this restaurant takes special care in serving a fine Tuscan menu.  Although it may cost a little more than you would expect to pay for lunch, this is an ideal spot for a fabulous regional meal.

If you only have time for one meal in Tuscany, the following recommendation is a MUST.

La Bucaccia. A visit to Cortona is not complete without a meal at La Bucaccia.  Read what I had to say about this restaurant in another post.  If you are fortunate to have time for two meals in Cortona, make La Bucaccia your dinner destination.  It is romantic, delicious, and most memorable.

WHAT TO DO

Morning:  From Piazza della Republica, follow Via Santucci up the hill toward Church of Santa Margherita.  The path is steep, but if you take it slowly, you'll catch a glimpse of real life in this town. At the top of the hill, the beautiful chiesa awaits.  On occasion, the church's organist performs for those stout enough to conquer the hill.  The square in front of the church offers a spectacular view of the Val di Chiana and Lake Trasimene.  On the way down, stop in Church of San Francesco, famous for its 13th-century artifacts.

Afternoon:  Stroll the small streets stemming from Piazza della Republica.  The small boutique shops offer a nice variety of local products including leather, ceramics and art.  Some of my favorites are Il Pozzo (gallery of Tuscan photography), Molesini Market Enoteca (wines and olive oils), and Busatti (fine Tuscan linens).

Bonus:  If you choose to stay more than one day, discover the world of pecorino cheese in a cheese-making class at La Bucaccia--a truly unique experience that only those in-the-know try!