It was on one of our earlier trips to Italy that we decided to stay in a small medieval village. We chose Cortona. Sitting high on a hill embracing the Valdichiani, Cortona had a sense of eeriness when we arrived, appearing cold and forlorn. Not at all the hubub it is today since Under The Tuscan Sun hit the big screen. Ready for the challenge, we set out to find some lunch.
With no rhyme or reason, we began down a street off the main square. It was a steep walk downhill. Maybe it was a sudden realization that the further we went, the longer the uphill trek would be to return; or simply that we didn't see any activity on the street, that we nearly gave up. Then out of nowhere, we heard it: the clanging of silverware. Was it simply someone's nonna preparing the family's lunch? Or, was there truly a restaurant nearby? Finding out meant a longer uphill walk later, but we had to know. A few steps further down stood the doorway to La Bucaccia. It seemed so isolated and out of the way.
To add to our uncertainty, there were no other people in the restaurant. Suddenly, and looking a little surprised, a tall and impeccably dressed gentleman (we later learned was named Romano) appeared and escorted us to a table. Inside, the restaurant was beautiful: stone walls, flickering lights and soft music.
It was almost as if Romano could sense our unease, because he soon swaggered to our table, snatched the menus out of our hands and gleefully shouted, "Soo-prize!" That's when the fun began! The ensuing three hours were filled with one delicious plate after another interspersed with Romano's whimsical hospitality. Something magical was happening at La Bucaccia that day.
By the end of the meal, we were stuffed beyond belief and on a first-name basis with Romano, his wife (and chef), Agostina, and their lovely daughter, Francesca. Warm sentiments were exchanged as we said our goodbyes. Giddy and delighted in our dining find and new friends, we were oblivious to the uphill climb in front of us.
This was only the first of many visits to La Bucaccia. When we return, the walk downhill is deliberate. Our hearts race in anticipation for the warm welcome, the hugs, and of course, the 'soo-prize.'
La Buccacia is more than a place to eat, it is a restaurant with a soul. The soul of three amazingly warm and delightful people.
