Travel with Julie

A Day Trip To Avila, Spain

Avila is another fairy-tale medieval town in Spain.  Located just 69 miles northwest of Madrid, it is a perfect day-trip by train.  Let me share a few facts I learned about Avila before telling you about the real surprise I found there.

The well-preserved fortification wall encircling the old town was built in the 12th century, while the modern part of the city has grown outside the wall.  The construction of the wall began in 1090, and I was told that it took 2,000 men nine years to complete. The wall (referred to as Las Murallas) is 1.57 miles in length and consists of 88 towers and nine entrance gates.  From Puerta de Santa Teresa, you can climb to the top of the wall and walk around the city for an impressive view of the town and surrounding area. Expect to pay a small fee (€3.50 when I visited) to enter.

Now, for my surprise discovery.  While strolling the town center and photographing its medieval architecture, I began to notice large (really HUGE) nests built atop chimneys and bell towers--the photo above really doesn't do it justice. One nest appeared to be 4 feet long and 2 feet tall.  They were astonishing!

I couldn't imagine what bird or creature that would need a nest this size (my mind took me back to the movie Jurassic Park!).  After a little research, I learned that it is the nest of the White Stork, a large wading bird that breeds throughout much of Europe.  Cool!

So, if you get the chance to visit Avila (and I highly recommend it!), consider taking a break from ancient walls and fabulous cathedrals and try to catch a glimpse of the baby-bringing stork!

Here are a few more photos to enjoy from Avila:

The Granada Alhambra--Spain's Most Visited Monument

I could see the Alhambra looming over the city of Granada when I first arrived.  It looked like any other fortress from the bottom of the hill -- not giving any indication of what I was about find once inside.  The beautiful lush gardens filled with cypress trees and roses, dancing fountains and reflecting pools, detailed carvings and wall-to-wall tile work kept me in a flux of juggling between camera and audioguide.  It was truly one of the most amazing places I've seen.

The Alhambra (meaning 'red castle' in Arabic) was the last of all the Arabian palaces to be built in Spain.  Built in 1238, it served as a fortress and palace for the sultans until it was conquered by the Christians (King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella) in 1492.  The greatest concern of the architects of the Alhambra was to cover every space with decoration.  Ceilings, walls and floors are covered with beautiful carvings, rich plasterwork, wooden frames and exquisite tiles.

The Generalife palace (more like a charming villa) served as a retreat for the sultans when they tired of their official duties.  To escape the heat of Andalucian summers, the sultans and their wives would flock to the shady patios and lush gardens surrounding the villa.

The Alhambra is one of Spain's most visited monuments.  It is best to purchase your ticket and reserve your visiting time well in advance.  You can do so by visiting Alhambradegranada.org.

Below are a few photos I managed to get (while juggling the audioguide!) on my visit:

If Only I Had A Tea And Spice Market Like Granada!

While wandering the streets surrounding Granada's cathedral, I came upon this little market filled with bins and baskets of aromatic potpouri.  At first, I wasn't sure what all the dried leaves and flower stuff was.  I almost expected someone to roll it up and offer me a puff!  Then, i notice a table of 'te' which I was able to quickly translate to 'tea.'  Ah, I was in an herb and spice market.  Wonderful!

It was interesting to find such exotic spices and teas in Spain when most Spanish food is prepared so simply.  The aromas and colors were intoxicating.  This market is located in the Albaicin, the old moorish quarter, explaining the influence of Arabic spices like paprika, cumin, coriander, and cardamom (and many others I couldn't pronounce or identify) found here.

I could only imagine the culinary exploration that would happen in my kitchen if I had a tea and spice market in my neighborhood!!  M-mm-mm-mm-good!

Sangria -- Spain's Wine Punch

They say (and I'm still cloudy on who "they" are), that sangria is the preferred summer drink of Spaniards.  I say, summer schmummer!  Sangria is great to drink anytime in Spain!

Sangria is a fruit-based wine punch.  It is typically made with red wine, fresh fruit and bubbly water or soda and served chilled or over ice.  And although Spain is the declared creator of sangria, the beverage has been accepted and adapted all over the globe.

In Spain, sangria is considered a good-value drink, mainly because a variety of different wines can be used in the recipe.  No one sangria is alike.  Often, restaurants use bottles of wine that were not finished the day before to make that day's batch of sangria.  Because the recipes vary, the alcohol content may vary . . . so be warned!

When I'm in Spain, I enjoy a pitcher of sangria every day with a tapas lunch, and again during an afternoon break. I find it refreshing and delicious!  When I am home and craving a little Spanish flare, I whip up my own version of the fruity drink. Try it!  It's so easy.

And, for a more festive affair, try my sparkling sangria.  My guests are always wagging their tongues for more!

CLASSIC SANGRIA

1 lemon, sliced thinly

1 lime, sliced thinly

1 orange, sliced thinly

1 cup blackberries

1/2 cup sugar

8 oz. triple sec

8 oz. brandy

8 oz. fresh orange juice

1 bottle medium-bodied, dry red wine

Place the fruit in a large pitcher.  Sprinkle the sugar on top and stir.  Add the triple sec and brandy, stir.  Add the orange juice and wine, stir.  Let stand for 5 minutes.  Serve over ice cubes in glass tumblers.

 

SPARKLING SANGRIA

1 orange, sliced thinly

1 lime, sliced thinly

1 cup raspberries, and extra for serving glasses (you may freeze them to act as ice cubes)

1 cup brandy, chilled

1/2 cup triple sec, chilled

2 bottles sparkling wine or cava, chilled

Place the fruit in a large pitcher.  Sprinkle the sugar on top and stir.  Add the brandy and triple sec, stir.  Minutes before your guests arrive, add the sparkling wine, stir gently.  Chill.  Add two raspberries to champagne flutes. Pour sangria into flutes and serve.

What Is Jamon Iberico?

It should be considered a crime to visit Spain and not sample Jamon Iberico.  It is simply delicious!  Long, golden legs of ham can been seen in carnicerias (meat shops) all over Spain, but especially in the Andalucia (Southern Spain).   The meat is one of Spain's most treasured delicacies and exports.

The cured ham is served in paper thin slices, often eaten by itself or on rustic bread.  It has a sweet and nutty flavor.  If slightly warmed, the flavors really come alive.

But what exactly is Jamon Iberico and what makes it so special?

Jamon Iberico is made the same way as Serrano Ham, but comes from a different pig--the black Iberian pig. These animals are the original swine of Spain.  This hog has a great capacity to accumulate fat with veins running through the muscle and large layers around the ham area allowing the hams to be cured for longer periods of time, resulting in a much more intense flavor.

The finest Jamon Iberico is called Jamon Iberico de Bellota (acorn).  Iberian pigs love acorns.  Those destined to be Bellota hams are released into the dehesa (oak forest) for several months prior to their sacrifice.  The exercise in foraging combined with the acorn diet significantly impacts the flavor of the meat.

After matanza (sacrifice), the fatty legs are packed in sea salt and hung to dry in the cool winter air for several weeks followed by a curing time of two to four years.

Jamon Iberico was illegal in America up until 2005 because there were no USDA approved slaughterhouses in Spain.  Fortunately for us, we began receiving our first shipments of the delicacy by the end of 2007.  Now, we can enjoy this Spainish treat at home.  The ham can be found in specialty grocers and websites like La Tienda.

Toasting The New Year With Cava

We are all familiar with champagne, the sparkling wine from the Champagne region in France.  And over the last few years, many have become familiar with Italy's version of the bubbly, prosecco.  But few have heard of, or had the pleasure of tasting, cava, Spain's sparkling wine.

Named after the cellars in which the wine is produced, cava is made in the "champagne" method.  It is said to have been first produced in 1872, and now more than two hundred million bottles are made for both domestic consumption and export. You can distinguish cava by the cork, which should be marked with a four-pointed star.

Typically, cava is a much better value for the money over champagne.  It is sold ready for drinking.  So, consider joining me as I toast in the new year with a lovely glass of cava!

Happy New Year's!

The Unanticipated Architecture Of Spain

In Italy, you expect to see Roman columns and beautiful domes.  In England, you anticipate curved gables and Tudor windows.  In France, it is the iron balconies and gargoyles that come to mind.  In Spain, however, I did not anticipate the amount of Moorish influence in the architecture, especially in the Andalucia region.  Not only was I surprised by the Moorish designs, I was bowled over by its beauty.

Prior to my first visit to the region,  I didn't know that the Moors (of Arab descent from North Africa) ruled much of the Iberian Peninsula beginning in the late Medieval era. The Muslim Moors moved into Southern Spain in 711 BC and the region flourished culturally and technologically. Many great buildings and palaces were constructed, and several remain as grand monuments in the area today. One of the most eminent palaces is the Alhambra in Grenada (pictured above).

I was taken by the immense and intricate carvings, the detailed inscriptions and vibrant colors.  It's impossible to imagine the construction of such intricacy.  Yet, it's even more difficult to image the display of immense wealth these facades once created.  Standing inside these magnificent buildings allowed my imagination to run wild!

It's truly difficult to put into words the grandness and beauty of it all, and the impact it had on me.  So, I'll leave a few photos to illustrate what I'm talking about. Unfortunately, the photos don't begin to do it justice!

A column in the Alhambra in Grenada.

Ceiling in the Alhambra in Grenada.

Inside the Alcazar in Seville.

Indoor pool in the Alcazar in Seville.