Travel with Julie

How to Drive in Italy - (Part 2: Driving the Freeways)

Freeways, or autostrade, are the fastest way to travel between two cities. Autostrade are toll roads; you will pay to use them.  Signs indicating direction to the Autostrada vary:  "Autostrada", "A", or an "A" followed by the road number (A1, A11, etc.).  These signs are green while other road signs are blue or white.

Entering an autostrada can be a little hair-raising; entrance lanes are narrow and short, traffic is fast-moving. Follow the "Entrata" (enter) sign to the entrance lane, carefully join freeway traffic and speed up quickly. Once on the freeway, it is important to observe the "rules" of the road: 

• Drive in the right lane, using the left lane for passing only.
• Use your blinker to indicate a lane change. 
• Turn your headlights on.
• Follow the speed limits (even if Italian drivers don't).  In more recent years, speed limits are being enforced through radar and cameras.  The maximum speed limit on the autostrada is 130 kilometers (about 78 mph).

Distance (in kilometers) markers are found in the center median on small green signs. These will give you a good sense of the how far you have to go before looking for your exit. Unlike U.S. freeways that mark exits with street names, the autostrada marks exits with towns; signs are blue.   You will need to study a map ahead of time to determine the exit that will put you in route to your final destination.  When leaving the autostrada, follow the "Uscita" (exit) signs.

At some point on the autostrada, you will come to a toll plaza with several drive-in gate options.  Avoid those labeled "Telepass"--these are for drivers with passes.  Drive toward those labeled "Biglietto" (ticket) or any unmarked gate.  Take a card from the automated machine and pass through the gate.

When you exit the autostrada, you have two options:  pay with cash (exact change may be necessary if the booth is unmanned), or pay using a credit card.  For an automated cash transaction, put your ticket in the slot, wait for the amount to be displayed, then put in your cash.  For an automated credit card transaction, enter the gate marked "Carte;" enter your ticket, wait for the amount to be displayed, then enter your credit  card.  Press the "Ricevuta" for a receipt.

If for some reason your credit card was rejected, don't panic.  You will be allowed to pass through the gate and the charge will be passed along to your rental car company.  You will receive notice of the extra charges via mail.

How to Drive in Italy - (Part 1: City Driving)

What do you need to know about driving in a city such as Rome, Naples, or Florence? Don't do it!!  It is impossible, dangerous, and unnecessary.

Unlike most U.S. cities that clearly mark streets with corner signs or overhead signs, Italian cities use placards.  Made of marble or stone and etched with the street name, these placards are attached to buildings near the top of the ground level or bottom of the second floor.  They are difficult to see when on foot; impossible to see from a car.

Streets in Italian cities can range from wide boulevards to alleys.  Some streets are barely big enough for a small two-seater economy car.  Rarely is there space to turn around or 'just make the block' if an error in direction is made.

Most cities are mapped with an unpredictable array of one-way streets.  Without rhyme or reason, a two-way road can suddenly turn into a one-way and send you in an unfavorable direction.  City streets often pass through public squares filled with markets and people, making it even more challenging to navigate.

Italian cities are well-designed for walking and public transportation.  You are better off forgoing a car and hoofing it.  Should you need a car for the next leg of your vacation, taxi to the airport to pick up a rental. Airports are generally outside of city centers and offer clear signage and access to all freeways leaving the city.

Top Ten Lesser Known Churches of Rome

You wouldn't dream of visiting Rome without visiting St. Peter's Basilica, the Pantheon, and maybe even S. Maria Maggiore.  Here are my top ten lesser known churches you may want to add to your "must-see" list:

10.  Santa Maria Sopra Minerva (Basilica of St. Mary over Minerva) - the only Gothic church in Rome.

9.  Santa Maria in Cosmedin - standing on the original site of an ancient Roman temple, the complex was transformed into a church in 772-95.  The porch houses the Bocca della Verita, the "Mouth of Truth" (a marble Roman artifact; its name derives from a medieval legend that if a liar placed his hand in its mouth, it would be bitten off.  (Location:  Pz. della Bocca della Verita/18, near the Roman Forum)

8.  Santa Maria degil Angeli (St. Maria of the Angels Basilica) - designed by Michelangelo inside a structure of ancient baths;  it also serves as a personal monument to Pope Pius IV, whose tomb is in the apse.  (Location: Pz. della Repubbica)

7.  Santissimi Apostoli (Holy Apostles Basilica) - this church dates back to the 6th century; Michelangelo was buried here after his death, but his body was later stolen and carried off to Florence by his nephew, where he was buried in Santa Croce. (Location: Pz. SS. Apostoli, near Piazza Venezia)

6.  Santa Maria in Trastevere - dating from the 4th century, this church is believed to be the first place of  Christian worship in Rome.  A column next to the alter marks the spot where, according to legend, a stream of pure oil flowed from the earth on the day Christ was born, signifying the coming of the grace of God. (Location: Pz. S. Maria in Trastevere)

5.  San Pietro in Vincoli (St. Peter in Chains Basilica) - first built in mid-5th century to house the relics of the chains that bound Saint Peter while imprisoned in Jerusalem. According to legend, Empress Eudoxia (wife of Emperor Valentinian III) gave Pope Leo I the chains as a gift.  He compared them to the chains of St. Peter's first imprisonment in the Mamertine Prison in Rome, and the two chains miraculously fused together. The chains are kept under the main alter in the basilica.  The church also hosts Michelangelo's statue Moses. (Location:  Pz. San Pietro in Vincoli, near the Colosseum)

4.  Basilica di San Paolo fuori le Mura (Basilica of Saint Paul Outside the Walls) - originally founded by Emporer Constantine in the 4th century, the Basilica of Saint Paul is the burial place of Saint Paul the Apostle. (Location: Via Ostiense/186, outside of city center near Metro Basilica San Paolo)

3.  Santa Prassede - dedicated to St. Prassede (or Praxedes), daughter of Pudens, in whose house St. Peter reportedly stayed while in Rome.  The small chapel of St. Zeno, off the right aisle and through a doorway flanked by ionic columns, was built as a mausoleum.  In a niche on the right side of the chapel is a large piece of a black granite column, said to be the Column of Flagellation (the pillar to which Christ was tied as he was scourged before the crucifixion).  (Location:  Via de Santa Prassede/9, near St. Maria Maggiore)

2.  San Giovanni in Laterano (Basilica of St. John Lateran) - dedicated to John the Baptist, this basilica was built by Constantine the Great in the 4th century.  The Alter of the Holy Sacrament contains a cedar table that is believed to be the one used by Christ at the Last Supper.  (Location:  Pz. San Giovanni in Laterano/4, near Metro San Giovanni)

1.  Santa Croce in Gerusalemme (Holy Cross in Jerusalem) - the 4th century church is located on a Roman imperial estate and houses an extraordinary collection of relics from the Holy Land.  At the top of a wide staircase is the Chapel of the Holy Relics where enshrined are:  the bone of an index finger (top shelf, left), believed to be the finger of St. Thomas; a container (top shelf, middle) containing small pieces of the Scouring Pillar (to which Christ was tied as he was beaten) and the Holy Sepulchre (Christ's tomb); two thorns (top shelf, right) from the Crown of Thorns; three fragments from the True Cross (middle shelf); one nail used in the Crucifixion (bottom shelf, left); and the Title of the Cross (bottom shelf, right) inscribed with "Nazarene" written in Hebrew, Latin and Greek.  (Location:  Piazza di Santa Croce in Gerusalemme, near San Giovanni in Laterano Basilica)

The Difference Between Tuscany and Napa Valley

Some would say there are many similarities between our wine country and that of Tuscany.  Maybe on the surface, but if you really experience both areas, you will see just how different they really are.

NAPA TUSCANY

Great food.  Generally not  Great food, traditional and

original to the area, but authentic to the area.  Most

food is prepared and  ingredients are fresh from the

presented with an original local farm, and many times

twist. cooked by the grower himself.

Good to great wines.  Most Good to great wines.  Most 

wineries are open to the wineries are small, family-run;

public for tours and tast- few are open to the public.

ings.  Wineries have Visiting a winery is akin to

become very commercial visiting a family farm and shar-

capitalizing on the tourist. ing their customs and traditions.

Unique culture that seems Unique culture that stems from

to focus on rich wines and a 2000-year-old tradition of wine

rich foods, as if to say, "we making, with a focus on history,

are the kings of wine." process and passion.

Bottom line?  Both wine countries offer a beautiful landscape and produce a great product.  Yet, in Tuscany, you still stand a good chance of exploring a winery with the vintner himself, and being asked to stay for dinner!

Dining in Napa Valley

The food in Napa Valley is really good--simply put!  Here are a few places that we especially enjoyed:

ZuZu    (Tapas): Located in the historic Old Town district of Napa, ZuZu's takes a fresh approach to traditional Mediterranean recipes.  Try the Queso Frito (Manchego cheese with roasted poblanos and Guajillo salsa), Morccan barbecued lamb chops, or clams and chickpeas in a white wine sauce to waken the tastebuds.

I love tapas because you can eat as little or as much as you want--perfect for a light lunch, afternoon snack, or casual dinner after a busy day of sightseeing.  At ZuZu's, you will enjoy the easy-going atmosphere as much as the food.  Be sure to say "hello" to the owner, Mick, who is sure to be one of your servers. 

Bottega (Italian):  This is no spaghetti and meatballs trattoria!  Chef Michael Chiarello creates dishes reminiscent of meals served in some of the best restaurants in Italy.  The polenta with carmelized mushrooms and balsamic game sauce is truly heaven in a jar!; and the Bistecca alla Fiorentina is one of the best I've eaten (and I've had my fair share!).

Don't be surprised should celebrity Chef Chiarello step out of the kitchen, serve plates to patrons, and enthusiastically share his trade secrets.  Chiarello is simply being true to his Italian roots!

Mustard's (American Grill):  When I think of "American Grill" my mind automatically conjures up diner fare--burgers and fries.  You can order burgers and fries at Mustard's, but you are seriously missing out on some fantastic alternatives if you do!  For starters, the sweet corn tamales with wild mushrooms and tomatillo-avocado salsa is nothing short of lip-smacking good.  A daily special, the Truckstop Deluxe, promises meat (always), potatoes (usually), and vegetables (rarely).  I tried the Truckstop Deluxe and was served a flat-iron steak that nearly melted in my mouth, roasted potatoes and perfectly prepared broccolini.

Chef Cindy Pawleyn obviously knows her way around the culinary scene with two additional Napa Valley restaurants:  Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen and Go Fish.  Because of Mustard's popularity, you will need a reservation--even for lunch.  If, like me, you forget, squeeze in at the bar while waiting for a table--Mo (Maurine), the bartender, will entertain you with local folklore and history!

Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen (Californian Home Cooking):  Piquillo peppers stuffed with cumin braised beef and charred tomato sauce; slow-cooked duck, chicken, and chorizo cassoulet ... need I say more? Did I tell you this is another Cindy Pawleyn restaurant?  Mmm-mm good!

Ad Hoc (American Family Style):  A unique concept that I found refreshing and utterly delicious: a prix fixe, 4-course chalkboard menu that changes daily, served family style.  Chef Thomas Keller, more known for Napa Valley's upscale French Laundry restaurant, sought to create a more casual neighborhood establishment.  As a result, Ad Hoc has become wildly popular with locals and visitors.

The recipes are akin to those found at French Laundry, the prices are not (a French Laundry 9-course prix fixe menu runs $240).  The menu features old favorites with a new creative spin.  It was here that I fell in love with sunchokes!