Travel with Julie

Chicken Chasseur

I have a confession: French cooking makes me nervous! French food seems so deliciously complicated that I tend to stay in more familiar territory--Italian cooking. Yet as I dapple in the cuisine, I am finding that not all French recipes are complicated, or scary.  Chicken Chassuer (pronounced shah-sur) is one of those hard-to-mess-up recipes.

Chasseur means "hunter" in French, and was originally served with wild game.  I, however, substitute a basic supermarket chicken in my dish.  The main ingredients include butter (of course, it's French!), mushrooms, shallots and wine. While recipes vary, most call for cognac, a special French brandy.  I generally don't have cognac on hand and use whatever brandy I have available.  It works well enough for me, but I'm sure a French connoisseur would argue that only a top-notch cognac will do!

In the photo above, I served my chasseur with penne pasta--it's all I had in the pantry at the time.  As good as it was, it is more typical of French cooking if served with buttered noodles or mashed potatoes.  Are you ready for the recipe?  Well, voila!

8 pieces of chicken

1 tablespoon olive oil

3/4 stick of butter

2 shallots, finely chopped

2 cups of sliced button mushrooms

1 tablespoon flour

1/2 cup white wine

2 tablespoons brandy

2 teaspoons tomato paste

1 cup chicken stock

2 teaspoons chopped tarragon

Salt and pepper

1 teaspoon chopped parsley

Rinse chicken parts and pat dry.  Heat oil in frying pan over medium heat, add 1/2 the butter.  Once the butter has melted and stopped foaming, add the chicken and brown on both sides.  Place chicken on a plate and keep warm.  Pour excess fat out of the pan.

Melt the remaining butter in the pan, add the shallots and saute until tender.  Add the mushrooms, saute for 2-3 minutes.

Add the flour and cook for 1 minute, stirring constantly.  Stir in wine, brandy, tomato paste and chicken stock. Bring the sauce to a boil while continuing to stir. Reduce the heat and add the tarragon.  Season with salt and pepper.

Return the chicken to the pan, cover and simmer for 30-40 minutes, or until chicken is cooked through.  Sprinkle with parsley.

Bon appetit!

A Day In Cortona

Of all the charming medieval villages in Tuscany, Cortona is one of my favorites.  Perhaps it holds a special place in my heart because I "knew it when" (before Frances Mayes made it popular with her book, Under The Tuscan Sun). Maybe, it is because of the wonderful friends there who, every year, welcome me like a long lost relative.  Either way, Cortona will forever be a stop on my Italy itinerary, as it should be on yours as well.

Cortona, located about 50 miles south of Florence and 130 miles north of Rome, is rich in Etruscan roots, dating back to the 4th century BC.  The streets of Cortona are easy to wander and spectacular views of the valley are readily available.  Be warned, however, the climb to the top (although worth every step and gasp for air) is steep!

Most guidebooks will tell you that one day is all you need to explore Cortona.  One day is sufficient to hit the highlights.  Two days, however, is ideal for digging a little deeper and experiencing some of the real treasures in this town.

WHERE TO STAY

Hotel San Michele.  Located inside one of the oldest buildings (formerly a 15th-century palace) in the heart of Cortona.  This charming boutique hotel has been restored to reflect its true history and character.  The rooms are simple and decorated with traditional antiques, offering some of the most dramatic views of red-tiled rooftops and the Val di Chiana.  If arriving by car, follow the signs to the hotel taking you inside the medieval walls.  Once you have unloaded your luggage, you will be required to drive back outside the walls for parking.

WHERE TO EAT

Osteria del Teatro.  Situated in a 16th-century building, this restaurant takes special care in serving a fine Tuscan menu.  Although it may cost a little more than you would expect to pay for lunch, this is an ideal spot for a fabulous regional meal.

If you only have time for one meal in Tuscany, the following recommendation is a MUST.

La Bucaccia. A visit to Cortona is not complete without a meal at La Bucaccia.  Read what I had to say about this restaurant in another post.  If you are fortunate to have time for two meals in Cortona, make La Bucaccia your dinner destination.  It is romantic, delicious, and most memorable.

WHAT TO DO

Morning:  From Piazza della Republica, follow Via Santucci up the hill toward Church of Santa Margherita.  The path is steep, but if you take it slowly, you'll catch a glimpse of real life in this town. At the top of the hill, the beautiful chiesa awaits.  On occasion, the church's organist performs for those stout enough to conquer the hill.  The square in front of the church offers a spectacular view of the Val di Chiana and Lake Trasimene.  On the way down, stop in Church of San Francesco, famous for its 13th-century artifacts.

Afternoon:  Stroll the small streets stemming from Piazza della Republica.  The small boutique shops offer a nice variety of local products including leather, ceramics and art.  Some of my favorites are Il Pozzo (gallery of Tuscan photography), Molesini Market Enoteca (wines and olive oils), and Busatti (fine Tuscan linens).

Bonus:  If you choose to stay more than one day, discover the world of pecorino cheese in a cheese-making class at La Bucaccia--a truly unique experience that only those in-the-know try!

Three Days In Rome

I have a friend who recently told me she did Rome in one day.  "It was a whirlwind trip and I was exhausted," she said.  Can Rome be done in one day?  Not really, unless you have Superman powers to fly at warp speeds and turbo spin time in reverse (and I really wish I could do that!).  According to my friend, she generated some memorable photos of a few of the city's highlights, but unfortunately didn't get to experience much beyond that. To capture more than a few photos, and to experience a little more of the unique offerings of Rome, you must spend a minimum of three days (and that's with a good itinerary and strong feet). Here are my suggestions on how to do it:

WHERE TO STAY

Albergo del Senato.  You simply cannot beat the location! Sitting next to the Pantheon, this boutique hotel is smack dab in the middle of the historical center, making it one of the most conveniently located hotels in town. With rates starting at 225 euro (including breakfast & taxes), it is not the most economical. Yet, with only three days to cover a whole lot of ground, you may find the price worth it!  It features comfortable rooms, a dramatic rooftop bar overlooking the Pantheon and Piazza della Rotonda, and some of the friendliest English-speaking staff you will find anywhere.

WHERE TO EAT 

With only three days, you may be tempted to do lunch in a"grab-and-go" fashion.  However, should you want to rest your feet and experience a little more of the dining scene, good options include:

Armando al Pantheon (located near the Pantheon). This small casual trattoria serves typical regional fare and is surprisingly good despite its touristy location.

Cul de Sac (located near Piazza Navona).  A popular wine bar with an equally popular menu.  

Antico Forno Roscioli (located near Piazza dei Fiori). Walk past the meat and cheese counter and beyond the wine shelves to find a strangely eclectic restaurant.  The menu is equally eclectic, yet, so good you may be tempted to stop in again for dinner!

Some of my top picks for dinner include:

Ditirambo (located near Piazza dei Fiori).  A casual trattoria with a vibrant crowd. The waitstaff is fun and friendly while the food is prepared with a slightly more modern and interesting take on traditional Roman fare. 

L'Archetto (located near Trevi Fountain).  A spaghetti house featuring oodles of options of sauces to choose from. Usually a crowd favorite among my tour groups, this casual restaurant is one of the more wallet-friendly, too.

The Library (located near Piazza Navona).  For a truly romantic and special evening, save this restaurant for your last night in Rome--it will charm your socks off! Follow the candles to find the restaurant sitting at the end of a secluded alley.  The menu is traditional but prepared with more complexity and interest--simply delicious!

WHAT TO DO

Ideally, you need a full week to truly experience Rome.  Nevertheless, in three days you can catch the highlights:

Day 1: Take a self-guided walking tour visiting the Pantheon, Palazzo del Quirinale, Trevi Fountain, and the Spanish Steps.

Day 2: Start the morning off by strolling through the outdoor market at Campo dei Fiori. When finished, make your way to Ancient Rome: the Colosseum, Roman Forum and Trajan's Forum.

Day 3: Visit the Vatican Museums and St. Peter's Basilica.  Relax for the remainder of the day in Piazza Navona.

First Friday Foto Therapy

Laghoina, Brazil

Taken by: James Knight, traveler

On the first Friday of every month, I will share a photo from my travels, or yours.  If you'd like a chance to see one of your fabulous vacation photos published on this site, send it (in .jpg format) along with a brief description to: [email protected].

Cure your travel bug with a dose of Foto Therapy!

Portals To Italy

   

A new discovery about myself:  I'm a peeping Tom traveler!  Not in a creepy sort of way, but in a casually curious kind of way.  Alongside the usual famous sites, I enjoy looking through windows, behind doors and into alleyways to see what new discoveries lie within.  Sometimes I find small, well-tended gardens blooming amid a busy concrete city offering a refuge from the hustle and bustle.  Other times, it's a breathtaking expanse of unspoiled scenery sitting just beyond an ancient wall.  Occasionally, it's just a snapshot of ordinary life.  Whatever the find, it is usually something special to behold. 

I particularly love looking through portals--doors or entryways leading to something unknown, or maybe even slightly mysterious.  Italy is filled with portals--some grander than others.  Most cities and towns were once surrounded by ancient stone walls defending itself against predators, and one could only access the town through its main portals.  Most palaces and significant buildings have large, and sometimes ornate portals leading to expansive courtyards and decorated architecture.  Often, the portals themselves tell a story with inscriptions or carvings detailing battles conquered or long family histories.

Portals signify leaving one place to enter another.  Similarly, when traveling to Italy, I leave all the stress of life at home and enter into la dolce vita--the sweet life!  Maybe that's why I have a thing for Italy's portals!