When it comes to Venice, there are two kinds of people: those who love it, and those who hate it.
Sadly, most people don't give Venice enough time. It is often overrun with day-trippers hopping off cruise ships, or, it is used as a starting point before heading onward to Florence or Rome. As a result, a crowded path forms leading visitors to nothing but the most popular sites, generally leaving the group feeling disappointed and disenchanted.
If given the time - say, three days - to slow down and wander, it is certain you will discover many of the things that make Venice special.
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel ai due Fanali. I discovered this small boutique hotel after making a wrong turn (if you been to Venice, you know how easily that can happen!). Once an ancient religious school, and recently refurbished, the hotel is quaint and intimate. Rooms are simple and charming. What really makes this hotel special is its proximity to the train station. If you have read anything about visiting Venice, you've read stories of travelers heaving suitcases over numerous bridges and climbing hundreds of steps to reach their hotels. From the train station, you need to only cross one bridge (with ramps) to reach Hotel ai due Fanali. Depending on the season, rates can go as high as 230 euro a night - not too bad considering many Venetian hotel rates climb well over 300 euro in high season.
WHERE TO EAT
The cuisine of Venice is quite different from other parts of Italy. Fish is the primary basis of a meal. And, with Venice's unique history in Asian cultures, many ingredients and spices from the East have made their way into the Venetian's diet.
Those who claim to dislike the city will also claim that the food in Venice is expensive and bad. This can be true (somewhat) if you dine in the most popular tourist areas. But if you just walk a bit further, you will find some truly divine eats that are a little easier on the wallet! Here are a few of my favorites:
Osteria La Zucca (located in Santa Croce) - A great place to go if you tire of eating fish. There are several meat options on the menu. La Zucca is small and very popular with the locals - make sure to make a reservation at least a week in advance. It is conveniently located on a canal making it easy to reach. The menu is always changing and is delightfully unique.
Osteria Antico Dolo - Near the Rialto bridge (and yes, on the crowded tourist path), this restaurant is the exception to the rule. The cicchetti (Venetian tapas) here makes this a perfect lunch destination. But don't stop there! The menu is filled with delicious options that change seasonally.
Al Covo (located in Castello) - Not the cheapest place to eat in Venice, but definitely worth a visit! This charming restaurant is tucked away off a small alley and can be a little hard to find. But, once you do, you will feel like you've found home. Immediately you will recognize a familiar accent greeting you at the door - yes, owner Diane is originally from Lubbock, Texas. You can read on their website how she and her husband, Chef Cesare Benelli, met and started Al Covo. This restaurant is popular - especially with tourists in the know. And, it has a lot of repeat business as Diane has begun to make friends with many of those who frequent Venice. So, plan ahead and make reservations.
WHAT TO DO
There are definitely some "must see" sites in Venice. Beyond that, my favorite thing to do is to stroll without an agenda. Simply take in the life of Venice through its bridges, canals and weathered buildings - it's truly beautiful!
Day 1: Go ahead and get the must-sees out of the way. Start the morning off with a visit to St. Mark's Basilica, St. Mark's Square and the Doge's Palace. It is well worth hiring a guide to tour these masterpieces. If not, be sure not to miss Ponte di Sospiri (the Bridge of Sighs) and Campanile (the bell tower of St. Mark's Basilica). After lunch, stroll toward Rialto bridge and shop the markets.
TIP: If visiting St. Mark's Basilica without a guide, be sure to avoid the long line by making a reservation in advance for entry. It's easy to do online and it gives you permission to bypass the lines for immediate admittance!
Day 2: Take a tour through Campo Santa Margherita for a taste of local life with its wonderful markets, boutiques and ancient villas. Spend the afternoon taking a vaporetto (waterbus) tour of the Grand Canal. Route No. 1 zigzags across the the canal from Piazzale Roma to Piazza San Marco and on to Venice's resort island, the Lido.
Day 3: Leave the main island to visit Murano, famous for its glass making, and Burano with its small, brightly colored houses.
Bonus: If art is your thing, take time to visit the Guggenheim museum for European and American art of the 20th century. Then, if you feel your trip will not be complete without one of those infamous gondola rides, then by all means do it and follow this advice: 1. Find a gondolier station beyond the San Marco area where it is less crowded, and 2. Make sure the prices are clearly posted. The official gondola fares for 2009 (for one to six people) were:
8 am - 7 pm, 40 minute ride: 80 euro (each additional 20 minutes adds 40 euro)
7 pm - 8 am, 40 minute ride: 100 euro (each additional 20 minutes adds 50 euro)
Don't be surprised if the rates aren't a little higher in 2010.
