Travel with Julie

What To Expect When You're Expecting The Perfect European Vacation

The picture above is a common scene throughout Europe:  Tourists looking lost, tired and dazed.  Images like these and stories from clients inspired me to write this post.

Americans traveling to Europe are often surprised, even disappointed, the first day (or two) of their arrival. They spend much of their time frustrated and questioning their decision to visit a foreign country.  I know. . . it's hard to imagine sitting in a sidewalk cafe in Paris, or meandering the piazze (plazas) of Rome and being disappointed. But, I have found myself in the same boat from time to time.  Let me tell you why.

It is usually because I packed a suitcase full of expectations--and not the good ones! Some expectations are good to travel with, some are better left at home.  Knowing what to expect when you are expecting the perfect European vacation will help your first day be a little less disappointing, and less frustrating.

1.  Expect everything to be different.  Even with 12 years of European travel under my belt, I often experience culture shock the moment I land.   Just this year in Granada, Spain, I spent 10 minutes fiddling with a bathroom door while crossing my legs in angst because I could not figure out how to lock it.  Thanks to the help of another patron, I was able to get the job done (both of them!).  

Things are different in Europe.  Every bathroom is different. Every airport is different.  Laws are different.  The language is different.   Hotels are different.  The pace is different. Etc., etc.  Figuring out how to navigate those differences can be exhausting and frustrating. By expecting those differences and embracing them the moment you land, you will certainly lessen frustration on your first day.

2.  Expect normalcy among the extraordinary.  Americans tend to romanticize foreign destinations.  We imagine it to be like a movie we saw, or a book we read.  We envision falling in love, developing some spiritual connection to the land, the food, or the people.  Instead, we arrive finding locals going about their daily business, ignoring our momentous arrival.  We commute from the airport through the most unattractive parts of the city where we thought we'd see glitz and glam.  We find the hotel to be less romantic and culturally unique when the website promised otherwise.  The historical site we've dreamed of seeing doesn't lie in the middle of an oasis, but instead, between a pharmacy and a shoe repair store.  

Expect to see extraordinary monuments, museums and historical sites--that is, by all means, the reason you are there.  Yet, realize that for hundreds of years (thousands, in some cases) people have built their normal lives around these grand structures. Expecting normalcy will help dispel unrealistic romanticism and often lead to a greater appreciation of the local culture.

3.  Expect to be tired.  Many flights from the U.S. fly to Europe overnight, arriving early in the morning.  Most avid travelers recommend adopting the new time zone immediately.  In doing so, you are awake for as much as 36 hours or more before your head finally rests on a pillow.  The first day is tough.  Feeling tired and cranky makes it difficult to navigate a new city, much less enjoy it!  

Expect to feel a fatigue like you've never felt before and cut yourself some slack.  Take the first day easy.  Take a short nap.  You will be more equipped the next day to tackle the city.

4.  Expect to be lost.  I am a navigating queen (pat, pat on the back).  However, it doesn't matter how good my internal compass is, I know I will get lost, take the wrong train, or walk in the wrong direction the first day in a new city.  I expect it!  

The first day is all about getting your bearings.  Many European cities are centuries old with roads that date back to horse and buggy (and even older) times.  Some of these small roads and alleys rarely make it on to a good map. So, know that you, too, will struggle with navigation, particularly on your first day.  If you know it's coming, it won't throw you for such a loop.

5.  Expect the unexpected.  Even the best laid plans can be macerated when it comes to a European vacation. Before leaving home, the Weather Channel may have called for 80 degrees and sunshine in Paris only to find it is 50 degrees and raining.  The Venice hotel told you the water taxi would drop you off in front of the hotel, only he dropped you off two blocks and three bridges away.  The hotel's website in Prague stated it is within walking distance of all the important sites, yet you find it is a very steep uphill climb away.  

Surprises are common on the first day in a new country.  And, those surprises can often leave you feeling frustrated or disappointed.  It helps to expect the unexpected and land in the new city with the c'est la vie (that is life) European attitude. Besides, you're on vacation...why sweat the small stuff?!

6.  Expect to have no control.  Oh, this is a hard one for us mighty Americans!  We are a control-freak society, aren't we?  It usually takes me more than one day to completely overcome this one (but thankfully, I do!).  We expect other cultures to behave like ours. We expect all foods to be to our liking. We want the same ease in transportation we find at home.  We expect to be seated and served immediately as we are in our favorite neighborhood restaurant.  We expect our vacation plans to be executed exactly as we planned.

Carrying these expectations, we lose the opportunity to truly relax and enjoy a destination.  The sooner we let go of them, the sooner we enjoy the ride, receiving all the richness the new culture has to give.

What I Learned About Bullfighting In Madrid

Until recently, the bullring was only open for spectators imbibing the sport of killing bulls.  Today, Madrid's Plaza de Toros has opened its doors to tourists.  With guided tours in several languages, the guide walks you through the stadium and onto the ground floor, explaining the ritual of bullfighting.

I braced myself for the smell of death.  A blood-stained arena. Thankfully, I found neither.  Plaza de Toros is a grand structure, beautiful in its own right.  Inside, the stadium resembles many U.S. stadiums used for baseball and football. Seating is a tad archaic with cement tiers lined with numbers to correspond with spectator tickets--then again, it was built in 1929.  A colorfully decorated section is offered for the president of the bullfight. From the spectator's viewpoint, there is little extravagance offered inside the stadium, seemingly symbolic of the sacrifices made in them--the sacrifice of death.

Sacrificing bulls is a practice dating back to pre-historic times.  The sport as we know it today started in village squares and became a more formalized sport in the late 18th century. There are hundreds of bullrings throughout Spain (smaller towns offering 'portable' versions).  The oldest stadium is in Ronda, a province in Andalucia (southern Spain).

According to our guide, six bulls and three matadores (bullfighters) are selected for each event.  Each matador and his team of assistants parade across the arena in ceremony.  Following the fanfare, the first bull is released. The first bullfighter's assistants engage the bull using large capes to see how the bull responds.  If the crowd is not pleased (indicated by whistling), the bull will be removed and a replacement brought out.

Once a suitable bull is located, two picadores (lancers on horseback) enter the arena who maneuver around the bull piercing the bull's shoulders to agitate and weaken the animal.  Then, it is time for the matador (literally meaning "killer") to enter.   The matador will use his cape to encourage the bull to charge him, maintaining a rigid pose and guiding the bull around his body.

As the bull tires (through both blood loss and exertion), the matador will attempt to drive a sword through the shoulder blades and directly into the animal's heart, killing it. If, however, the matador fails in his attempt, his assistants move in to finish the job.

Following the killing of the bull, the crowd acts as judge by cheering.  If seen as successful, the matador will be awarded with one of the bull's ears.  Two ears is considered an ultimate award.

It is a brutal and gory sport.  One that celebrates man's fear and triumph over death.  It only comforts me a little to know that the dead animals are immediately removed from the arena and sold to area restaurants--at least their suffering is not totally in vain.

Every year 250,000 bulls die this slow and tortuous death for sheer entertainment.  For all the "rich" culture throughout Spain, this is one ritual I cannot conceive.  A tour of the bullring is as close as I will ever come to being a spectator of the sport.  Thankfully, I am not alone.  This summer, lawmakers in Catalonia (northeast Spain) banned the pageant starting in 2012.  At this time, it is the only significant national movement to do away with bullfighting.

There's not much that a foreigner (such as myself) can do about changing this longstanding ritual.  But for those desiring to make their voices heard on the subject, a petition in support of banning bullfighting can be signed.  The deadline for signatures is January 1, 2011.

The Art Of Flamenco Dance

Flamenco.  Before visiting Spain, the word conjured up ideas of loud Spanish guitar music, fervent stomping and frantic clapping.  I was sure I'd scream of colossal boredom ten minutes into a Flamenco show!

Oh, contrariamente!  I loved it!!

My first experience was in Madrid.  The venue was obviously for tourists.  But, it was intimate enough that everyone in attendance was within spitting distance of the stage. The dancers performed to delight the audience.  Intense footwork, dramatic expression, and artistic movement drew me in.  Seriously, I thought the room was going to explode from the crowd's excitement.  I left the show eager to learn more about this classic Spanish dance.

My second experience was in Seville. Through a local source, I discovered a quaint neighborhood stage offering Flamenco performances more typical of those danced by the gypsies in the 16th century.  Prior to the performance, I spent 30 minutes with a dance student who explained to me the art and history of the dance.

Flamenco is a true mystery to the Spaniards.  It's origins are unknown, but it is believed to have come from the gypsies who immigrated to Spain from India around 1500. During that time, the Catholics had defeated the Moors and forbade anything which was not Catholic. Living under extreme suppression, persecution and suffering, the gypsies began to express themselves through song and dance.  This is why traditional Flamenco is sad and heartbreaking.

During the 19th century, Flamenco made its way into Andalucia (the southern region of Spain).  Since then, Flamenco has taken on several modern forms, including Flamenco-pop, developed in the '60s and '70s and seen mostly in Spanish night clubs.

The art form consists of the cante, the song (the source of inspiration), the guitar, and the dance.  I learned from the dance student that each component requires years of study to effectively learn the techniques--universities even offer college degrees in clapping!!

The performance in Seville was arresting.  The guitarist picked the strings with ease and grace while the soloist sang with soulful conviction.  The dancers took us through a myriad of emotions ranging from despair to celebration.  The audience was silent and still, captivated for the entire hour.

Flamenco.  A colossal bore?  No way!  It is a passionate and seductive art form, mysterious and misunderstood.  I can't wait for a return trip to see more!

Savor Spain

Let me introduce you to SPAIN.

FIRST FRIDAY FOTO THERAPY

15th-Century Building in Cannobio, Italy.

Taken by:  Clark and Betsy Thurston

On the first Friday of every month, I will share a photo from my travels, or yours.  If you'd like a chance to see one of your fabulous vacation photos published on this site, send it (in .jpg format) along with a brief description to:  [email protected].

Cure your travel bug with a little Foto Therapy!