Travel with Julie

Shakespeare And Company In Paris

After watching an episode of Samantha Brown's Passport to Europe where she visited a small English-language bookstore in Paris, I made a note of it to find it on my next visit.  Sounds a little nerdy, doesn't it? I did feel a little funny being in Paris and hunting down a bookstore!  But, this isn't just any ol' bookstore. This one has a story . . . and if you've read any of my posts, you know how I love a 'story!'

In 1913, the original Shakespeare and Company was opened by a young American woman, Sylvia Beach.  It was the place for all the English-speaking writers in Paris to hang out.  Sylvia spent much of her time helping penniless writers find places to stay, arranging loans and sending their works to small publishers.

Hemingway was a regular at Shakespeare and Company.  In fact, as a major in the US army, it was Hemmingway who at the liberation of Paris in 1945 drove his tank to the shop and personally liberated Sylvia Beach.

After the war, Sylvia decided not to reopen the shop.  Instead, George Whitman decided to carry on the spirit of Sylvia's bookstore.  George opened his doors to writers with only one caveat:  sleep in the shop and work for two hours a day running the store, and read a bood a day.  Several 'greats' graced the shop like Henry Miller who ate there on more than one occasion, and Anais Nin who left her will under George's bed.

George retired at age 92 in 2006.  His daughter, named Sylvia, took over.  Whitman died on December 14, 2011 at the age of 98.  He passed at home in the apartment above the bookstore.

Don't you know George had some stories to tell?  I had hoped to meet George Whitman.  He was known to sit on the apartment balcony and chat with visitors entering the shop.  Sadly, the windows were closed and curtains drawn when I visited.  I did, however, pick up a copy of The Hunchback Of Notre Dame and had it stamped with the official Shakespeare and Company stamp for a souvenir as Samantha Brown recommended.  OK, maybe I am a little nerdy!

 

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Paris' Marche Bastille Market

 

My typical Sunday:  Eat a small breakfast. Make out my grocery list for the week. Cut coupons. Jump in my car to go to the nearest supermarket.  Stroll down isle after isle sifting through various brand products for the best price, calorie count or expiration date.  Stand in a long line at the checkout counter. Unload the groceries onto the checkout counter, only to reload them back into the basket after they've been rung up and bagged.  Load the bags into the trunk of my car. Drive home.  Unload groceries from the car. Store groceries in my pantry or refrigerator.  Ugh -- the boring and exhausting chore done for another week!

My typical Sunday if I lived in Paris:  Sit at an outdoor table in a nearby cafe while enjoying a relaxing croissant and cafe au lait.  Then stroll down the street to see what's on tap at the local street market. Chat with familiar vendors while salivating over their fresh produce, cheese and meats.  Let my senses stimulate the menu for the week -- sampling and tasting my way through the market.  Oh, maybe purchase a new scarf, a fabulous bottle of French wine or a good book to read, too.  Before leaving, I stop by the made-from-scratch prepared vendor booths to pick up roasted chicken and au gratin potatoes for lunch.  With shopping complete, I walk down the beautiful Parisean street to return home.

Which sounds better?  I heard a big "well, DUH," didn't I?

The Marche Bastille market located on Boulevard Richard Lenoir was my first food market experience. Sure, I expected to see fresh colorful fruits and vegetables.  Afterall, most of the products come from local farms.  What I suprised to see were the cases loaded with every kind of foul known to man like quail, guinea-fowl and Bresse chickens; cheeses galore including an array of goat cheeses and a wide variety of hard cheeses; fresh baked breads ranging from almond croissants to baguettes and savory pastries to tarts; desserts like chocolates and pies; spices and condiments; flowers in every color and size; wines from major producers as well as regional selections (at ridiculously low prices); seafood (some unrecognizeable!); meats and sausages; and fresh yogurts, creams and butters. Then, as if I already died and gone to heaven, I came across the prepared foods like paella, roasted chicken, cured meats, smoked ham, lasagna, pasta dishes, couscous dishes and more.  On the outskirts of the food stalls, I found kitchen supplies, clothes, books, jewelry and other accessories for sale.

I suddenly understood all the buzz about Paris' outdoor markets!

While other shops and places are slow to open on Sundays -- or even closed -- the Marche Bastille market is a fabulous place to spend a few hours or enjoy a low-cost meal.  And while there are no warning signs posted at the entrance of this market, I give you this one:  Be preprared to have a thrilling shopping experience and leave sorely depressed that you do not have one like it at home!

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My Favorite Sculpture At The Louvre Museum In Paris

I'm a little embarrassed to admit that I'm not much of a museum rat.  An hour or two in any museum--even the great ones--is more than enough for me.  But, every once in a while, this museum flunky comes across a piece of art that makes me stop dead in my tracks.  Psyche Revived by Cupid's Kiss by Antonio Canova in Paris' Louvre Museum is one such piece.

I didn't know the story behind this sculpture the first time I saw it.  Now that I do, I understand why I am so drawn to it.  What girl isn't a sucker for a romantic fairy tale? Here's how this one goes:

Once upon a time there was a king with three daughters.  They were all beautiful, but the most beautiful was the youngest, Psyche.  So beautiful, in fact, that people began to worship her instead of Venus, the goddess of love and beauty.  This made Venus very jealous, so she asked her son, Cupid, to make Psyche fall in love with a horrible monster.  However, when Cupid saw how beautiful she was, he dropped the arrow meant for Psyche and pricked himself with it, falling in love with her.

Despite Psyche's beauty, her parents feared no one wanted to marry her.  They were told by an oracle that she was destined to marry a monster, and they were to take her to the top of a mountain and leave her there.  Instead, the wind kicked up and swept her away to a magnificent palace where she was taken care of by invisible servants.  Every night, a visitor (her new husband) came to her. He told her he would only visit her at night and she must never try to see him.

While her invisible husband was very good to her and the invisible servants saw to her every desire, Psyche was homesick.  She gained permission from her new husband to allow her sisters to visit.  When they did, they became very jealous of her lavish lifestyle. The sisters coaxed Psyche into peeking at her husband by saying he was a monster who was fattening her up to be eaten and that she must kill him if she wanted to survive.

That night, armed with a lamp and a knife, Psyche visited her husband while he slept.  She was so surprised to learn that he was Cupid that she dripped hot wax from the lamp onto his shoulder, waking him. When Cupid made sense of the situation, he immediately left Psyche, hurt by her quickness to think so badly of him.

Psyche roamed day and night looking for her husband.  After much despair, she went to his mother, Venus.  Still angry, Venus set about in getting revenge by forcing Psyche to complete some extremely difficult tasks.  Cupid, now recovered from his physical and emotional wounds, began to miss his beloved Psyche. He soon learned of his mother's shenanigans and convinced Jupiter to order Venus to stop her persecution of Psyche.  That day, Psyche was delivered to Jupiter where he gave her a cup of ambrosia to drink, making her immortal.  He then ordered the nuptials between the two lovers to be perpetual.

Ah, such sweet romance.  Learn more about this precious sculpture by visiting the Louvre's website.

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Visiting Mont Saint Michel

It was gloomy the day we decided to visit Mont Saint Michele and I was disappointed since clouds usually equal bad photos. For some reason, thought, the gloominess seemed to add to the mysterious allure of the place.

Mont Saint Michel is a monastery built over the course of 1,000 years.  It is the result of the Archangel Saint Michael appearing in a dream before the bishop of Avranches.  The first chapel built on this small island was built in the 8th century, while the current-day Benedictine Abbey dates from the 13th century. Look closely and you will see the statue of Archangel Saint Michael sitting 560 feet above the English Channel.  During the French Revolution, the abbey became a prison for political opponents.

Mont Saint Michel was an island separated from the mainland by one mile of sand at low tide, or by water at high tide.  By the end of the 19th century, a causeway was built linking the island to the mainland.  I had read that the timing of visiting the abbey was most important.  The range in tides can be 46 feet between high and low water levels, and the rising tide can sometimes rise "as swiftly as a galloping horse," as described by Victor Hugo.

I had read about these tides and how people were rushing to get to the Mont with rising water on their heels, or how people couldn't get off the Mont because the island had become surrounded by water while they were visiting the abbey. Not being raised by the sea and not understanding the lunar and tide cycles, we didn't know what to expect, adding even more to the mystery of the Mont and our visit.

I later learned, the causeway provides access to and from Mont Saint Michel no matter where the tide is. Only those who choose to walk across the tidal flats find danger from tides and quick sands.

Crossing the causeway takes you directly to the fortified walls and entrance to the village.  It's pretty touristy with hotels, restaurants and souvenir shops. Follow the main road, Grand Rue -- the only way to go is up -- to the abbey. Once inside the abbey, I highly recommend taking a tour or using an audio guide. Either way, expect to spend several hours touring the abbey itself, and expect to be blown away!

There are many technical marvels within the abbey.  One being the Great Wheel that was used to move goods from the ground to the abbey.  It was powered by up to six men who would walk on the inside of the wheel and propel it winding a rope pulling the supplies into the abbey.

Mont Saint Michel and the abbey are open daily except for January 1, May 1 and December 25.  Ticket prices start at €8 for adults.  Visit the Mont Saint Michel website for more information on access, lodging, restaurants and visiting.

 

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The Oldest Clock In Paris

How many times did I visit Paris before I knew this clock ever existed?  Three. It's easy to miss and often overlooked. And yet, it's one of the many cool things to see on Paris' Ile de la Cite.  It is the oldest clock in Paris, dating back to 1535 -- and it still works!  It is said that upon the clock's striking on the hour of 2 AM on the morning of August 24, 1572, the signal was given for the beginning of the St. Bartholomew's day massacre. True? I don't know, but it makes for a good story, doesn't it?

Where do you find this infamous clock?  It is situated on the upper corner of the Palais de Justice building at the corner of Quai de l'Horloge (horloge is French for clock) and Pont au Change.

 

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