Travel with Julie

Paris' Marche Bastille Market

 

My typical Sunday:  Eat a small breakfast. Make out my grocery list for the week. Cut coupons. Jump in my car to go to the nearest supermarket.  Stroll down isle after isle sifting through various brand products for the best price, calorie count or expiration date.  Stand in a long line at the checkout counter. Unload the groceries onto the checkout counter, only to reload them back into the basket after they've been rung up and bagged.  Load the bags into the trunk of my car. Drive home.  Unload groceries from the car. Store groceries in my pantry or refrigerator.  Ugh -- the boring and exhausting chore done for another week!

My typical Sunday if I lived in Paris:  Sit at an outdoor table in a nearby cafe while enjoying a relaxing croissant and cafe au lait.  Then stroll down the street to see what's on tap at the local street market. Chat with familiar vendors while salivating over their fresh produce, cheese and meats.  Let my senses stimulate the menu for the week -- sampling and tasting my way through the market.  Oh, maybe purchase a new scarf, a fabulous bottle of French wine or a good book to read, too.  Before leaving, I stop by the made-from-scratch prepared vendor booths to pick up roasted chicken and au gratin potatoes for lunch.  With shopping complete, I walk down the beautiful Parisean street to return home.

Which sounds better?  I heard a big "well, DUH," didn't I?

The Marche Bastille market located on Boulevard Richard Lenoir was my first food market experience. Sure, I expected to see fresh colorful fruits and vegetables.  Afterall, most of the products come from local farms.  What I suprised to see were the cases loaded with every kind of foul known to man like quail, guinea-fowl and Bresse chickens; cheeses galore including an array of goat cheeses and a wide variety of hard cheeses; fresh baked breads ranging from almond croissants to baguettes and savory pastries to tarts; desserts like chocolates and pies; spices and condiments; flowers in every color and size; wines from major producers as well as regional selections (at ridiculously low prices); seafood (some unrecognizeable!); meats and sausages; and fresh yogurts, creams and butters. Then, as if I already died and gone to heaven, I came across the prepared foods like paella, roasted chicken, cured meats, smoked ham, lasagna, pasta dishes, couscous dishes and more.  On the outskirts of the food stalls, I found kitchen supplies, clothes, books, jewelry and other accessories for sale.

I suddenly understood all the buzz about Paris' outdoor markets!

While other shops and places are slow to open on Sundays -- or even closed -- the Marche Bastille market is a fabulous place to spend a few hours or enjoy a low-cost meal.  And while there are no warning signs posted at the entrance of this market, I give you this one:  Be preprared to have a thrilling shopping experience and leave sorely depressed that you do not have one like it at home!

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Visiting Mont Saint Michel

It was gloomy the day we decided to visit Mont Saint Michele and I was disappointed since clouds usually equal bad photos. For some reason, thought, the gloominess seemed to add to the mysterious allure of the place.

Mont Saint Michel is a monastery built over the course of 1,000 years.  It is the result of the Archangel Saint Michael appearing in a dream before the bishop of Avranches.  The first chapel built on this small island was built in the 8th century, while the current-day Benedictine Abbey dates from the 13th century. Look closely and you will see the statue of Archangel Saint Michael sitting 560 feet above the English Channel.  During the French Revolution, the abbey became a prison for political opponents.

Mont Saint Michel was an island separated from the mainland by one mile of sand at low tide, or by water at high tide.  By the end of the 19th century, a causeway was built linking the island to the mainland.  I had read that the timing of visiting the abbey was most important.  The range in tides can be 46 feet between high and low water levels, and the rising tide can sometimes rise "as swiftly as a galloping horse," as described by Victor Hugo.

I had read about these tides and how people were rushing to get to the Mont with rising water on their heels, or how people couldn't get off the Mont because the island had become surrounded by water while they were visiting the abbey. Not being raised by the sea and not understanding the lunar and tide cycles, we didn't know what to expect, adding even more to the mystery of the Mont and our visit.

I later learned, the causeway provides access to and from Mont Saint Michel no matter where the tide is. Only those who choose to walk across the tidal flats find danger from tides and quick sands.

Crossing the causeway takes you directly to the fortified walls and entrance to the village.  It's pretty touristy with hotels, restaurants and souvenir shops. Follow the main road, Grand Rue -- the only way to go is up -- to the abbey. Once inside the abbey, I highly recommend taking a tour or using an audio guide. Either way, expect to spend several hours touring the abbey itself, and expect to be blown away!

There are many technical marvels within the abbey.  One being the Great Wheel that was used to move goods from the ground to the abbey.  It was powered by up to six men who would walk on the inside of the wheel and propel it winding a rope pulling the supplies into the abbey.

Mont Saint Michel and the abbey are open daily except for January 1, May 1 and December 25.  Ticket prices start at €8 for adults.  Visit the Mont Saint Michel website for more information on access, lodging, restaurants and visiting.

 

Planning a trip to France?  Click here to find out how I can help make your experience a unique postcard in your travel scrapbook!

Visiting Honfleur, France

Honfleur was a little sleepy when I visited in late October, but I liked it that way. As pretty as this town is, I can only imagine how foreign vacationers and the local French must converge on this town by the thousands in summer.

I stayed for two nights.  Not long enough. Although it's a small town and there isn't a long "must-see" list, it's just so beautiful, I wanted to hang out and take it all in for a few more days.  But, if you only have a day or two like me, consider this:

WHERE TO STAY:

Les Maisons de Lea, converted from an old salt warehouse and three 16th-century houses, is a charming hotel located in the heart of Honfleur.  Can you imagine how beautifully "French" this place looks in summer when the vines covering the facade are lush and green?  Ahhh.

We stayed in the Navy house where our room was decorated in a nautical theme.  It was very comfortable, spacious and quiet.

WHERE TO EAT:

La Tortue (The Turtle) was named after two people who, according to legend, fell in love on Turtle Island and vowed to open a restaurant in Honfleur. Here, seafood (what else?) is the specialty, as well as coussinet de pomme sauce caramel (apple filled pastry with caramel sauce). Mm-mmm.

WHAT TO SEE:

Vieux Bassin - Also known as the Old Port, it was the birthplace of numerous navigators, sailors and captains.  Most notably, Samuel de Champlain who organized a crew from Honfleur to make his discoveries in Canada (particularly founding Quebec in 1608).

Church of Sainte-Catherine - Built by shipwrights in 1466, this is the largest wooden church in France.  The church's bell tower, also made of mainly wood, was built across the square instead of atop the church to lighten the load of the church's roof.

The Lieutenance - The stone building located at the end of the Old Port refers to the 17th-century residence of the King's Lieutenant.

Church of St. Leonard - The facade of the church dates from the end of the 15th century and is an example of flamboyant gothic architecture.

 

Planning a trip to France? Click here to find out how I can help make your vacation a unique postcard in your travel scrapbook!

Les Treize Deserts de Noel -- Provence-Style Christmas

 Photo credit: Flickr

I love holiday traditions, and I especially love learning about traditions followed in other countries.  Thanks to my new friend, Pam Siddiqui, for sharing a special tradition in the south of France, Les Treize Desserts de Noel.  Side note: I call Pam my "new" friend because she and I have only recently started corresponding.  In fact, I'm an "old" friend of Pam's online boutique, Olive and Branch, where I shop for beautiful French home accessories.  That said, I hope you enjoy reading about Provence's delicious holiday tradition, browse Pam's store, and by all means, DON'T MISS Pam's generous offer at the bottom of this post!

Les Treize Deserts de Noel -- Provence-Style Christmas

Christmas is almost here and everywhere you go in Provence you will hear the words 'Joyeuse Fetes' and 'Joyeux Noel' ring out -- from city and town hall buildings to holiday cards and carols. Other traditions that will unfold in large cities like Avignon, and small villages throughout Provence, are traditional Marches de Noel, Christmas nativity scenes, santon displays and midnight masses. There's one more ... and, of course, it has to do with food!  This typical Provencal fete is the Christmas Eve tradition of the thirteen desserts, or les treize desert de Noel.  I love this tradition because, although, there are thirteen desserts -- yes, count them -- most are healthy versions of desserts like fresh and dried fruit or nuts.

Almost every family in Provence that celebrates Christmas celebrates with the Thirteen Desserts served after the 'Gros Souper' (the big meal served after mass on Christmas Eve).  The thirteen desserts symbolize Christ and his twelve apostles sitting at the last supper. Although the items can vary from village to village, they are always eaten on Christmas Eve and they most commonly include:

Four Mendiants (the Monks who have taken a vow of poverty) Raisins for the Dominican Order, Almonds for the Carmelite Order, Dried Figs for the Franciscan Order and Hazelnuts for St. Augustine.

Four Beggars, usually Apples, Pears, Oranges and Dates.  Oranges are a traditional Christmas gift representing wealth in the coming year and a real treat to everyone during the depression. Today, in our family stockings, one can always find an orange tucked away at the bottom.  It was a tradition I grew up with and one I have passed down to my children.

Four Riches (any combination of these):

• Confit Fruit - Representing good and evil are Nougat Blanc and Nougat Noir
• Coing or Quince paste
• Panade or an Apple Tart
• Calissons d'Aix, a frosted marzipan treat--one of the most awaited desserts of the Thirteen Desserts and a specialty of Aix en Provence.

And finally, Fougasse, or Pompe a Noel (olive oil bread).  This is the traditional brioche made with olive oil and flavored with lemon peel or orange and served with sweet wine.  Most importantly, if you want to ward off bankruptcy in the coming year, break the bread, don't cut it!

However you celebrate Christmas this year, incorporating some of Provences thirteen desserts is certainly a sweet way to round off the holiday season.

Pam Siddiqui is the owner of Olive and Branch for the home, part-time Provence resident and author of Postcards From Provence.  Olive and Branch brings French and French-inspired home decor and personal care items to you and your home.

SPECIAL OFFER TO READERS OF TRAVEL WITH JULIE:  Receive FREE Fedex Home shipping (continental USA only, please) on all your purchases through the end of the year, December 31, 2011.  Just enter Julie in the coupon code section at checkout.

Thank you Pam for sharing a Provencal Christmas with us all!  Do you have a French holiday tradition? I'd love to hear about it!

Finding A Piece Of Italy In France

When my clients asked me to plan their France vacation, I was thrilled.  When they asked me to find Italian restaurants for them to eat in, I was knocked for a loop!  I don't eat Italian food when I'm in France.  Yes, France is the epicenter for gastronomy, I just didn't know where good Italian food was.  So, the search began.  I polled my resources, made a list, and sent Samina and Nick on their way. Fortunately, they returned home with a good report.

Graciously, Samina and Nick have agreed to share their story with all of us who would enjoy a little piece of Italy the next time we are in France:

My husband and I traveled to France in August 2010.  We were not too excited about France’s beef or salmon tartar, fois gras (goose liver) or any other kind of pate.  Although we did have some enjoyable meals at French restaurants, we found ourselves searching out Italian restaurants to satisfy our pallets.

Two of our most enjoyable Italian restaurant experiences were at La Ville de Sienne in Nice and Romantica Caffé in Paris.

Restaurant La Ville de Sienne – Nice, France

My husband and I ate at La Ville de Sienne the last night we were in Nice and absolutely loved it.  It is located right in the Old Town, which is made up of quaint intersecting streets. We sat outside so we could enjoy the atmosphere of the night life.  We ordered seafood risotto and ravioli with braised beef and red sauce.  We were not disappointed.  The portion sizes were generous, the food was delicious, and the price was very reasonable!  The seafood risotto came out in a black skillet full of assorted seafood and risotto.  The ravioli came out plated, but along side was a small bowl of braised beef.  There was so much food we could not finish!  This is a restaurant that we would definitely recommend for those seeking Italian food in France!

    Romantica Caffé – Paris, France

Romantica Caffé is a cute little restaurant located not too far from Les Invalides and within walking distance to the Eiffel Tower.  When we arrived at the restaurant, we were greeted right away and were waited on by a woman who happened to be Italian and spoke perfect English.  She made some great recommendations for us.  We started out with bruschetta, which was amazing, and ordered their featured pasta and pasta with artichokes.  Their featured pasta was not a let down and even featured a show!  It was probably one of the most memorable eating experiences of our lives.  The featured pasta was a Parmesan Pasta, which is made table side.  To start, they rolled out a wheel of parmesan cheese (about 2 feet in diameter) that had been turned into a bowl through use.   They first poured cognac into it and then light it on fire!!  The server then would continuously scrape the sides of the cheese bowl to create a pile of cheese.  They then brought out steaming hot pasta from the kitchen and put it into the wheel of cheese.  We watched in awe as she continued to stir the hot pasta with the cheese.  She then plated it and we enjoyed.  It was scrumptious!  The other dish we ordered was pasta with artichokes, which was also delicious.  We were truly satisfied with our food and savored every bite.  This is a restaurant that we would definitely recommend for those seeking Italian food in France!

If you have a favorite Italian restaurant in France, tell us about it by leaving a comment below.