Travel with Julie

Wine Tasting in Tuscany: Castello di Gabbiano

The first mention of Castello di Gabbiano dates back to the 12th century when the castle belonged to the Bardi family.  It was later passed on to the Soderini family who made a name for themselves in the political events of Florence. Today, Castello di Gabbiano continues to be a one of Tuscany's leading wine estates, offering accommodations to travelers, a lovely restaurant with arched stone walls and wood beamed ceilings (Il Cavaliere) and a wine-tasting/sales venue.

Visits to the castle and the ancient cellars, followed by a tasting of the estate's wines are available to the public every day except during winter months when an appointment is necessary.  Private visits can be arranged as well to, including a technical tour with information about the property, vineyards, techniques of cultivation and wine making of Gabbiano.  The wine shop is located in an old restored hayloft next to the castle.

Castello di Gabbiano is about 23 miles south of Florence.  The castle is surounded by beautiful gardens and panoramic greenery. It's definitely worth a stop on a Tuscan wine-tasting tour!

 

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Wine Tasting In Tuscany: Castello di Meleto

Castello di Meleto dates back to the 13th century when it belonged to Benedictine monks.  Later, it became a part of the the Ricasoli's property, the same family who owned Castello di Brolio.  It features an imposing cylindrical tower built as protection against artillery fire and an 18th-century theater.

The property sits in the heart of Chianti just outside Gaiole in Chianti.  The fairytale setting draws you in with the picturesque Chianti hills, cypress-lined lanes, fragrant rose gardens and magnificent views.  It's a lovely place to visit even if you have no interest in tasting their wines!

The tasting room is located adjacent to the castle.  After sampling delicious wines, visitors can tour the castle to find ceilings with beautifully painted frescoes and antique furnishings.  There are also guiestrooms available for those who want to stay overnight (five are in the castle itself, and four are in the chapel house). Tours and accommodations must be reserved in advance.

Castello di Meleto is a little more than an hour drive south of Florence.

 

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Wine Tasting In Tuscany: Casalvento

A relative newcomer to the Chianti region, Casalvento has been gaining attention among its peers.  But, what makes Casalvento so special, aside from its wine of course, is where the grapes that make the wine come from -- the beautiful hilltop surrounding Livernano, my favorite agriturismo located outside Radda in Chianti.

Livernano was a small hamlet inhabited by Etruscans.  By the 17th century, it became a quiet farming village until share-cropping was abandoned.  The hamlet was revived in 1990 when restoration began.  Today, it is a working farm producing fine wines, olive oils, honey, vegetables and fruits while offering a romantic, relaxing retreat for visitors.  The first vineyards were planted 15 years ago on 38 acres of beautiful woodlands.  In 2007, the owners opened their first tasting room and cellars, Casalvento, located in Radda in Chianti.

No reservation is required for tasting.  But if you'd like to learn more about their wine making process and tour their facilities, contact the cellars ahead of time.

Radda in Chianti is about an hour drive south of Florence.  If you plan to visit the winery, make arrangements to have dinner at Livernano while you're at it -- you'll be glad you did!

 

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Wine Tasting In Tuscany: Castello Banfi

Nothing is more romantic than a casual drive through the rolling hills and endless vineyards of Tuscany.  Add in a wine tasting or a candle-lit dinner in an ancient cellar and the experience becomes totally unforgettable. Nearly over every Tuscan hill and around every corner you find a Renaissance castle or vineyard estate that offers wine tasting, local cuisine, and often, accommodation options.

Castello Banfi is a family-owned vineyard estate in the Brunello region of Tuscany (near Montalcino). The origins of the castle can be traced back to the ancient Etruscans.  Today, Castello Banfi sits on 7,100 acres of vineyards.  For visitors, the castle offers an enoteca for tastings or purchases of the estate's wine, olive oil, balsamic vinegar or honey.  

The restaurant, La Taverna, serves up lunches and dinners of traditional local dishes paired with selections of the estate's wine.  Be tempted by the a la carte menu or one of the 5 or 7-course tasting menus.

Luxury rooms in the adjacent stone village are available for those who want to stay longer to enjoy the peach and plum orchards, olive groves and nearby woods.  The 9 rooms and 5 suites are decorated with exposed wooden beams, stone arches and terracotta floors.  All are equipped with a flat-screen TV, Internet connection, safe and a mini bar stocked with a complimentary selection of wines from Banfi.

The drive to Castello Banfi from Florence is about two hours; from Rome, it is about three hours. For tours, tasting or lunch/dinner reservations, email [email protected].  

 

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Renting A Villa In Italy

It's a romantic idea, isn't it? Living like Frances Mayes (Under The Tuscan Sun) in a dreamy villa with sweeping views of vineyards and olive trees while noshing on Tuscan feasts and imbibing on red wine is an incredibly romantic picture.

Nevertheless, that romantic bubble can be quickly burst without careful evalution of the villa and the services its owner provides.  A few important things to know are:

1. Is their a local name of the villa?  Imagine driving into the countryside after a long flight and you have difficulty finding the villa.  You stop to ask a local for directions, but they only shrug their shoulders because they don't recognize the name of the villa.  Many villas have been given 'new' names by their current owners, while long-time locals know it only by its original name.  Ask the owner you are renting from for previous names the villa is know by.
2. Are there clear and precise directions?  Obtaining an address is great, but GPS systems rarely identify specific addresses in rural Italy.  It is better to have specific directions of getting to your destination.
3. How do you get the keys upon arrival?  Most villas are rented by management companies. Again, imagine pulling up to your vacation rental after an exhausting flight and a long drive in a foreign land only to find a note on the door that you need to pick up the keys in the nearby village. Finding out this information in advance will save you time and frustration.
4. What is included in the price?  Can you imagine your surprise when you check out and find the use of electricity was not included in your rental price?  Oops!  It's not that uncommon. Electricity is very expensive in Italy.  And even though more and more rentals are including it in the rental price, some do not.  It's always a good idea to find out upfront or risk being hit with a high electric bill at the end of a great vacation.
5. Will electricity be turned on upon arrival?  I speak from personal experience on this one (and this is why hubs now travels with a flashlight)!  As I mentioned in #4, electricity is expensive in Italy, so the electricity is typically turned off when a property is vacant.  When we arrived at our rental property (in the dark), we found hand-written instructions on how to turn the electricity on. Even though it was written in English, it may as well have been written in Italian because it was all Greek to us!  We called the management company and had to wait an hour with only the light from our car's headlights before someone arrived to help us out.
6. Is the property staffed?  Some rentals are completely independent and others have a manager nearby on the property.  It is greatly convenient to have someone nearby should something in the rental break or not work properly.  If the property is independent, make sure instructions will be left behind for operating appliances and phone numbers to call when there are problems.
7. What exactly does child-friendly mean?  Child-friendly to an Italian villa owner means they allow children to stay in their property.  Child-friendly to you may mean there is an electric cover on the pool, cabinets and toilets sport child locks and stairways are blocked with child gates.  If this is important to you and the safety of your children, ask.
8. What personal amenities are provided?  A friend of mine rented a beautiful villa in Tuscany. After 15 hours of flying and 3 hours of driving, they arrived late in the evening tired and in dire need of a restroom.  They bee-lined to the villa's restroom only to find no toilet paper.  They quickly jumped back into the car and sped to the nearest village.  Everything was closed.  And sadly for them, everything was closed the next day for a national holiday.  Their story is now recited with humor, but they didn't find it so funny at the time.  Only in high-end luxury villas will you possibly find the kinds of amenities you will find in a hotel:  toilet paper, bath soap, shampoo. For obvious reasons, you will want to find out before you leave home.
9. Is a workable washer/dryer provided?  Washing and drying clothes in Italy is another story! Water is a commodity in the countryside, so using a washing machine is discouraged. Dryers are rare, and finding one that actually dries is even rarer.  Drying clothes on a line outside is prefered--not a problem unless it rains. If your packing will be determined on whether you will be able to do laundry or not, find out the washer/dryer situation beforehand.  Oh yea, and pack your own detergent!
10. Is cleaning service provided? In most rentals, only a final cleaning is provided in your rental cost.  There are a few that offer a mid-week linen change, and even fewer that offer a daily cleaning.  If you don't mind spending your vacation picking up after yourself and your family, then it's not a problem.  Otherwise, ask if there is a cleaning person you can hire during your stay.
11. Is a cook provided?  OK, there are several things to think about here.  If you plan to cook meals for you and your family, you will want to make sure a market is nearby.  You will make several trips to the market during your stay because refrigerators are very small and hold very little.  Also, be prepared to do your own clean-up (unless you've hired a cleaning person as suggested in #10).  While some properties offer the services of a professional chef, you may also ask about the availability of a local cook--someone's nonna (grandmother), perhaps.
12. Who do I call in the event of an emergency?  At home, you have your doctor, the fire department, the police department and other important contacts programmed into your phone or written down in a phone book.  It is just as important--or maybe more so--to do the same in your vacation home.
13. How is payment made? Here's another horror story from a newbie renter:  A couple picked up their keys to their rental property and were asked for the full week's rental in cash.  A whopping €8,500.  They were directed to the nearest ATM (the only one in town) to find they could only withdraw €250 per day.  Fortunately for them, the owner allowed them into the property with the agreement they would go directly to the bank the next morning for the cash.  If it is not clearly stated on the property's website, ask how payment is to be made when you confirm your rental.
14. Bring all copies of correspondence with you.  It's a vacation and you'd like to think you can trust everyone, but that's not the world we live in.  Make copies of all of your correspondence with the owner or management company and pack it with your other travel documents.  That way, you have a leg to stand on should an issue arise that strays from your original agreement.

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