Travel with Julie

10 Things that Make Me Happy in the Amalfi Coast

With its dramatic views, fishing villages, and the infamous Positano clinging to tall steep cliffs, what's not to love about the Amalfi Coast?  For that reason, if I could only do 10 things on my next visit, these would be at the top of my list:

1. Drive state road 163 between Sorrento and Salerno.  At some points, this road is barely passable in a small Italian car, much less the large tour buses that roar through by the dozens every hour.  It twists and turns hugging the mountain while suspended between sea and sky.  With stunning views at every corner, this drive is both exhilarating and spectacular.
2. Watch the sun set from the balcony of my room at Grande Hotel Tritone (pictured right).
   
3. Have a casual lunch at Cumpa Cosimo (located on Via Roma, 46, in Ravello).  A simple trattoria with simply good food prepared by chef/owner (and comedian!), Nettie Bettone. (Apparently, celebrities such as Mariah Carey and Oprah Winfrey have enjoyed lunch here, too!)
4. Browse through my favorite ceramic shop, Ceramiche d'Arte. See a pattern you like, but want it on a different piece?  Not a problem, the artist will paint and fire the piece in the pattern of your choice and send it to you!  Love that!
   
5. Take in the garden sites and coastline views from Villa Cimbrone.
6. Enjoy an afternoon break with a lemoncello in Piazza Duomo, Amalfi. The Duomo di Sant'Andrea (pictured right) offers the perfect backdrop in this busy square.
7. Explore the town of Positano, from the top down!  The traffic-free alleys are, in essence, stairways leading down to the town's heart and the sea.  Unfortunately, there is no escaping the climb back up the hill to reach your transportation!
8. Stroll Via S. Cesareo, Sorrento.  Every night, this street is closed to traffic as it comes alive with locals and visitors.  Lovers, families, and shoppers stroll up and down the avenue taking in window-shopping, gelato, and/or the local town gossip.
9. Have dinner on the terrace of L'Antica Trattoria (Sorrento) -- beautiful, romantic, entertaining, and delicious!
10. Day-trip to the island of Capri. 

10 Things That Make Me Happy in Tuscany

Ever since Frances Mayes introduced us to her fairy tale Tuscan life, I have had a love affair with Tuscany.  As difficult as it was, I have narrowed down a list of 10 things that make me utterly happy in this extraordinary place:

1. Dining at La Bucaccia in Cortona.  With its history, location, and charm aside, this restaurant holds a very special place in my heart because of its owners: Romano, his wife and chef, Agostina, and their daughter, Franscesca.  The ambiance is unlike any other in Tuscany, and the food is beyond superb. Romano's exuberance will entertain you all the way from antipasti to dessert.  My favorite dish?  Hard to say.  I usually set the menu aside and ask Romano to "surprise" me.
2. Shopping for Tuscan paintings at the Rotini Art Gallery in San Gimignano.  From beautiful landscapes to abstract modern art, Rotini features top local artists.  Well known, and well trusted, Rotini will provide framing and shipping to ensure the safe arrival of your treasured piece.
3. Visiting the Abbey of Sant'Antimo (near Montalcino) to hear the monks chanting. Twice daily, the monks assemble in the church for prayers. It is especially beautiful and most sacred during the evening prayers when the sun has set and the hills have silenced, as if in total reverence of the moment.
4. Sampling pecorino cheese in Pienza.  The entire town smells of cheese!
5. Visiting and cooking with friends Carla, Mama Gina, and Gioa in the beautiful Vopaia trattoria, La Bottega. Carla whips up the best ribollita, white beans with Italian sausage, and wild boar sauce I've ever eaten. And although there is a slight language barrier between us, it never dampens lively spirited conversation!
6. Spending a lazy afternoon in one of my favorite wineries and catching up with old friends, and making new ones:  Paola at Poggio Antico; and Carla at Casalvento.
7. Shopping the Florence markets: San Lorenzo and Mercato Nuovo.  I absolutely adore the silk scarves and leather handbags sold here. And the prices can't be beat!  If only I could squeeze more into my luggage!
8. Sitting unders the stars in the courtyard of my favorite agriturismo, Livernano -- an utmost serene and ethereal experience. 
9. Attending an opera performance in St. Mark's Church in Florence.
10. Driving through the countryside with no destination in mind. The rolling hills, sun flower fields, vineyards, olive groves, cypress trees, hilltop villages and red-roofed villas scream romance and photographic perfection.

My Favorite Agriturismo

Over the past few years, the agriturismo has become a popular choice for those traveling in Tuscany.  How could it not?  Rural settings, farm breakfasts, relaxed pace -- all spell vacation! There is one, in particular, that is very special to me and draws me back each year: Livernano.

I discovered Livernano 4 years ago, shortly after it opened following more than a decade of restoration and renovation. The staff was surprised and excited when I called asking to visit (I believe I was their first visitor!).  Since then, Livernano has become more than a place to stay.  It is home away from home; and the folks at Livernano are family!

Located in the hills outside Radda in Chianti, the hamlet was first inhabited by Etruscans, whose reign reached its highest point more than 2,500 years ago.  Yet, it was the Romans who gave Livernano its name.  During the 17th century, Livernano became a quiet farming village until the system of share-cropping was abandoned. By 1953, Tuscany became a poverty stricken land and there were no more farmers left to tend Livernano.

The hamlet was revived in 1990 when restoration began.  Today, Livernano is once again a working farm producing fine wines, olive oils, honey, vegetables and fruits.  Surrounded by 38 acres of vineyards, ancient olive groves, and 130 acres of beautiful woodlands, Livernano serves as a magical retreat for weary travelers.

Two houses have been restored and furnished with local antiques.  Brick tile floors, beamed ceilings, plush bedding, and modern bathrooms await you in each guest room.  The songs of nocturnal creatures serenade you to sleep each night while the moon lights up the Tuscan sky.  Morning comes with the sound of hunters' shotguns blasting in search of wild boar and the clanging of dishes being prepared for the morning breakfast. 

Livernano is truly a special place that embodies the spirit of Tuscany.  Once you arrive, you will find it very hard to leave!

Locate Livernano:

What is an Agriturismo?

If you are searching for lodging in Italy for the very first time, you may be confused by terms like tenuta, borgo, or agriturismo. Agriturismo -- a concept created from the words "agriculture" and "tourism" -- is a working farm that offers accomodations for vacationers.  In Tuscany, these farms invariably are producers of wine and/or olive oil. 

Agriturismi (the plural of agriturismo) are offered in the form of a whole house, apartments, or rooms.  In most cases, these farm houses have been carefully restored and furnished with beautiful country-style antiques. Considering the rural setting, one might think that this style of vacation would be a bit rustic.  On the contrary.  Many agriturismi feature complete kitchens, luxurious bathroom amenities, swimming pools, and fine linens.

An Italian agriturismo usually serves food prepared from ingredients grown or made on the farm.  A few allow guests to participate in farming activities, while others offer cooking classes to teach traditional recipes and preparations.  Some cater to unique groups such as yoga enthusiasts, artists, and ceramicists.

Staying in an agriturismo is about experiencing rural Italian life.  It is about adopting a slower pace.  It is a wonderful way to spend a vacation!

What is a Tenuta?

No, it's not a tomato . . . it's not a tuba or tornado . . . nor is it a tavern, taxi, or tabernacle.  So, what exactly is a tenuta?  Pronounced tay-noo-tah, it is an Italian estate or vineyard.

A tenuta usually consists of a large estate home surrounded by a small village that once housed those who worked the farm.  Today, many of these estates and villages have been converted into apartments and B&Bs for visitors.

 

Pictured here is Tenuta di Lupinari, one of the largest private, family-owned estates located in the heart of Tuscany.  

Behind the estate home is the small village, also known as a borgo. 

This property has been beautifully restored to constitute 11 apartments and 4 B&B bedrooms.

I really enjoyed the spaciousness, the peacefulness, and the overall feeling of being a local while staying in one of Lupinari's apartments.  It truly is a unique experience.

Visit Tenuta di Lupinari's website at www.lupinari.com.